USA 2019 – 2nd April Day 11 – Big Sur to San Simeon

Day 11

Today we started in – Big Sur
We finished in – San Simeon
Miles travelled today – 75
Miles so far this trip – 1162
Tonight we are staying at – San Simeon Lodge

A quiet wake up. Max is still sleeping in his own room the other side of the lodge.

I am sitting at a table, the blinds open slightly so as not to let too much light in. A lonely jogger is heading out.

The sun is trying to break through, and I sit looking through the blinds willing it on.

Eventually I start loading up the car, and being the first one out have the pleasure of a face full of cobwebs as I walk across the lodge’s decking. The spiders must have been busy last night.

We check out and go for a quick walk around Pfeifer State Park, the $10 entrance fee was waived as we were guests of the Big Sur Lodge.

When we leave, we make a beeline for Pfeifer beach, famed for its purple sand.

There is certainly a purple hue to it, but I must say I am mildly disappointed it isn’t shockingly bright.

The beach itself is cove-like. Scattered families sit out under the cloudy skies. The sea seems particularly noisy. It’s waves crash onto the beach before retreating and coming again.

Max has a fun 20 minutes rolling down a big sand hill. We apologise to the beach rangers if they feel the quantity of sand is less than it was. The missing grains are the hood of Max’s sweatshirt. And his hair. And mouth. And ears.

We head back to the car, the narrow road bumps us out again, and we pass back through 8 inches of water, more confident than we were on the way in. Before this though, we get an obligatory photo at the sign.

Next stop was Cafe Kevah, which do to the imminent rain shower, was closed. We headed up to the restaurant Nepenthe, and the high prices and 45 minute wait convinces us to head back a mile to the Big Sur Deli.

$17 dollars for all of us. That is less than the price of a sandwich at the elevated Nepenthe restaurant.

I have mentioned this in a previous post. California, The Golden State. But agin the sun evades us. Today it is the foggy state.

The mountains poke into the mist and cloud above, obscuring all the best views of one of the most amazing drives in the world.

At one point, we cold only see three cars in front of the slow moving procession. We zig zag up and down the mountains. Constantly seeing turnouts offering photo opportunities.The main problem being that due to the fog, the turn outs are upon too quickly, and even if we could stop, the views are likely to be of only foot and mist anyway.

We make an emergency stop-like exit into one of the turn outs. We are slightly lower now, so there is a modicum of a view.

Back in 2013, on the PCH we stumbled upon the Big Sur Coast Cafe & Gallery. It was the only cafe on this part of the only road, so perhaps stumbled upon is the wrong word. What I mean is we didn’t go looking for it.

This time we were at least looking out for it, and we found it (hard to miss) but alas it was closed. From the noises coming from inside, it sounded like they were having some work done.

Our next shop was McWay Falls. The mist in the air and the spray somewhat hinders the photos, but it was good to see, and another thing we missed back in 2013.

We were heading to San Simeon tonight, and the last stop on the agenda was the Elephant Seal lookout point. Again, we enjoyed this during our previous trip, but this time, Max was with us.

He really enjoyed it. Hundreds of Elephant seals all accumulated on the beach together. Some wrestling for position and chasing others off. Some just content to snuggle up and enjoy the now warming glow from the sun.

Brave squirrels, no doubt tamed by the constant stream of human visitors, scurry up hoping for a tidbit or two.

The odd person feeds them, despite the signs saying not to.

A glimpse of blue skies at last. We are slightly further south, now at sea level so the temperature has risen.

We arrive at San Simeon Lodge under a beautiful blue sky. The mist and clouds we encountered further north up Highway 1 could have been on another day.

The motel is basic, and truth be told, could do with a spruce up. Being average, there were not too many highlights. The lowlights though, were plugs hanging off wall. The shower was weak. Suzanne was attacked by a spider and Max wouldn’t sleep as he napped in the car in the afternoon.

Although it is a bit harsh to blame the hotel for that last one.

Day 11 complete. 13 to go!