He stares at me with his painted face, accompanied with contorted facial expressions that gives the impression it is he, not I, that is the one going through some sort of distressing episode.
I am only grateful that the yelling and screaming he projects is spoken in Maori. In truth, the noises he makes are not really yelling or screaming. But a noise so far in all my years I am totally unaccustomed to and am finding it difficult to explain.
Had it been spoken in English for me to understand, I have no doubt I would have turned on my heels. Especially if what was being said was even half as savage as the accentuated foreign words sounded.
Perhaps it would not have felt as intimidating had he not been swinging a spear around with more grace and precision than a marching band baton twirler.
He places it on the floor not six feet away, the feather, the offering of peace.
Quite preposterous that something so fragile and so delicate follows a display of such potential violence. I look down at the feather. To pick it up indicates you accept their peace offering and are a friend. To leave it there indicates you are foe, refusing their peace offering.
I am many things, but I am neither foolish or a fighter. So, I pick it up quicker than I would if it had been a crisp New Zealand fifty-dollar bill, desperate to get out of there alive. I thanked him on behalf of my “tribe”. Seeing this, he steps forward and we perform the “hongi”, a ceremonial touching of noses that signifies the end of this part of the formal proceedings.
Mitai Maori Village Hospitality
We are today enjoying the hospitality of the Mitai Maori Village in Rotorua, New Zealand. This whole episode forms part of a Pōwhiri. A welcome ceremony that starts with establishing friend or foe, and finishes with sharing Kai (food).
I, with my wife, am one of about 70 or so other tourists enjoying the experience. For the purpose of the evening, we are all considered a tribe; I am fortunate enough to be chosen by the guide as the Tribe leader.
Once the touching of noses or the “hongi” was complete, my duties as Tribe leader were too. I made my way back to my seat to witness the rest of the Pōwhiri.
I am now grateful I am in the relative safety of the other tourists while we witness the Haka. Had I still been on stage at this point to witness this spine-tingling, cacophony of noise I fear they would have spent the next few hours hunting for me. Cowering somewhere in the Mount Ngongotaha Scenic Reserve.
What is the Māori haka?
The Haka is a ruthless dance of the New Zealand Māori.
It was designed to prepare the War Party mentally and physically for battle, psyching them up in a united manner for the reality of war, and the imminent combat.
It would usually be performed as they leave their own village, or even on the field of battle prior to engagement with the enemy
On arrival at the Mitai Maori Village
Prior to this immediately on arrival to the Mitai Maori Village, and long before I had been inaugurated as Tribe leader, we were all invited to stand above a mini ravine, engulfed in the foliage that surrounds it, and witness the Maori warriors arrive.
Donning traditional dress, they skilfully paddled their “Waka” (an ancient warrior canoe) along the Wai-o-whiro stream.
The hollering and facial expressions given, even at this point, should have been enough of a warning to retreat and graciously decline the honour of Tribe Leader for the night.
However, I didn’t and I am therefore now making my way back to my seat. With a feather and a story to tell.
I think everyone now was ready for a feast. We had been educated. We had been entertained. One of us had been majorly intimidated. Regardless of the mix of feelings we all had, we shared a common one. Hunger.
Cooking the Hāngī
Just after we had enjoyed the Maori Warriors arrive, we were invited to the kitchen to see the chef prepare the feast we were all about to enjoy. Assuming the tribe leader picked up the feather, of course.
When I say invited to the kitchen, I mean we were asked to stand around a hole in the ground while a white sheet was pulled back to reveal 2 large cages. One of the cages contained meat and the other contained potatoes and other vegetables.
Sitting within the Pacific Rim of Fire, Rotorua is a hotbed (pardon the pun) of Geothermal activity. This heats the Earth up to such a point you can cook tea for a Tribe of 70+. This is called Hāngī.
We all stand there, staring at a basic, but I am sure very effective method of cooking. I can’t help but try and work out if the food looks delicious, or if I am put off by the fact it is being cooked in the dirt.
Certainly, the wonderful aromas emanating from the recently uncovered cage suggest the former. After a suitably stressful encounter with what can only be described as a warrior, I am now ready for a relaxing, traditional meal.
The Haka is firmly behind us. With the peace offering feather firmly in our midst, we filed back to the oversized tent like structure.
Dinner Time at the Mitai Maori Village
Rows of tables akin to an army mess hall or large school canteen await. As the creature of habits that we are, we all seem to find our way back to the same seats we had a couple of hours ago.
As the new guest of the Mitai Maori Village warriors, we feast and enjoy our earthly cooked food.
Tasty, filling, and all cooked without using a kilowatt of electricity.
As the evening draws a close, there is one last highlight for us to enjoy. The Mitai Maori village, are proud to boast the only opportunity to see Glow Worms in their natural habitat, in the Rotorua area.
A calming, albeit damp and rain drizzled, walk through the woods ensued. It is fascinating to see the little creatures nestled in their damp, undisturbed woodland environment.
We climb onto the coach for our short drive back the hotel. As we do I can’t help but reflect on the turbulent mix of emotions I have enjoyed. From the display of raw power and emotion from the warriors on stage, to the contrasting calmness of the Glow Worm walk.
Nestled in between, a feast fit for a king, or at the very least a Tribe Leader.
It has been an evening that will live in my memory for a long time, and is certainly the highlight so far of our trip to Middle Earth.
Facts
Getting to New Zealand – www.britishairways.com, currently £989 return
Mitai Maori Experience – www.mitai.co.nz, currently $116 NZD
Accommodation – www.rotoruanz.com/visit/stay/hotels